Friday, July 23, 2010

And the other one...

Square gusset t-shirts
Pattern Description:   Square Gusset T-shirt, downloaded from the Website 'How to Fashion Design by Bob Martin', Website.

Most of the interest in this is in the sides and back. The underarm gussets and bottom gusset give the tshirt its shape.

I've made 3 versions - as well as the green version.

Pattern Sizing:   S,M,L. A large seems to equate to a 14. It would be the easiest pattern in the world to size up or down as it just consists of a rectangle front (which includes the back yoke and neck), a smaller rectangle back, simple sleeves, top and bottom underarm gussets and a small gusset at the bottom.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?   Yes, although I changed the neck from a V-neck to a scoop neck. The neckline on the pattern is reasonably high.

Were the instructions easy to follow?   Incredibly thorough - with photos for many steps. There are a couple of bits where more info would be helpful - the v neck binding in particular.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I came across this pattern by accident on an internet search and I think it is great. It has an interesting shape and is very comfortable.

The results will be affected by the fabric. My first effort was in an 11 oz rayon lycra jersey, and it wasn't quite drapey enough and formed big yukky pouches under the back arms - not a good look. So I recommend a drapey jersey.

Fabric Used:   All out of lightweight rayon jerseys from Denver Fabrics. The green was the most drapey - the t-shirt kept growing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

1. The v neck wasn't doing much for me so I have made it into a scoop neck.
2. On my muslin there were nasty back arm pouches so I reduced the gusset a little (see earlier post).
3. I hadn't made a t-shirt for a while and my neck binding wasn't sitting too well initially so I used this method from Threads Magazine threads neckline binding video, which did the trick.
4. I shaped in the sides a bit between the marker for the bottom gusset and the underarm gusset to reduce boxiness. It is a fairly loose and boxy style.
5. 5cm was taken off the bottom of each sleeve - long is part of the look but these are REALLY long.

Would you sew it again?   Would you recommend it to others? I have sewn 3 up and see more in my future - so yes, I would definitely recommend it to others.

Conclusion:   Love it. This pattern will be having more outings.

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