Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Vogue 1128 tops and Burda 6/2010 capri pants

Hope everyone had a lovely break!  

I'm having a sewing binge. It is my last 7 days of freedom - back to work next week plus it is sweltering at the moment so being closeted in the sewing room with the aircon cranked up is a pretty perfect activity as far as I'm concerned. And I'm not sticking a toe outside.   

I've got a few projects to catch up on.  I finally took some photos of the Burda tie neck blouses as worn. 
The trousers are a second version of the Burda 6/2010 capri pants in a stretch cotton/viscose sateen.  I really like this pattern - it is super quick and easy to make.
I'm digging out all the tried and tested patterns and trying to use up some of my stash fabrics - first off the machine - two Vogue 1128 Anne Klein tops.  This pattern is gratifyingly quick and simple to make - an evening project. 
I made the top last year in a stretch silk charmeuse, and have worn it a lot.
It's technically a stretch pattern - the pattern says 'for moderate stretch knits only' but it works just as well in a woven as long as you add an inch or so to the side seams at the bottom, tapering up to the existing seamlines.  The pattern is tapered into the hips so if you are using a woven and you don't add the extra width you may find it a bit tight there.

I've got quite a few fabrics in my stash that I've had for years but never used as they are small (around a metre), patterned (I'm a bit scared of patterns - trying to match them isn't one of my favourite things) and fiddly to cut or sew.  This is a good top for those kinds of fabrics.  

The first new version is a Roberto Cavalli viscose, which was a bit sheer so is lined in cream silk habutae.   How could I have left this fabric languishing in the cupboard for so long?   
I spent 1 1/2 matching up the patterns beautifully, only to realise when I put them together that I had the fabric the wrong way around so it only matched if one piece was inside out!  Uggghh!!!  It isn't too bad though.
The second version is a cream and black silk chiffon, again lined with cream silk habutae. 
If you are making an unlined version of this top - I (and I note a few others) had problems with the facing - it rode up and didn't fit at all.  

A very helpful commenter on PR explained the reason for this - in drafting the facing, Vogue may have assumed the neck line pleats would not open up until they were below the bottom edge of the facing.  And depending on the shape of the person wearing the top (high bust or larger than B cup), the pleats might open up closer to the neckline and the facing is then not large enough at the bottom edge to match the amount of fabric released from the pleats.  That sounds spot on.

If you need to change the facing - I did a quick slash and spread with the pattern and cut a new facing.   Each spread was 2cm wide at bottom.
My recommendation if making this top - make sure you have enough material left over just in case you need to cut a new facing. Alternatively, bind the neck edge instead of using the facing.

Next post is a second style from October Burda - :

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

November Manequim (No.1)

I've been furiously sewing for the past week.   Only 13 days 'til I go back to work (sob) and I can't fit into most of my work clothes.  So my next post will have some actual, sewn clothes!  
But for the moment, another Manequim has turned up!   I just realised when looking at the Manequim site that there are 2 November issues - so there are 13 magazines a year.  No. 617 arrived today which is a high summer edition by the looks of it.   Lots of swimwear, beach gear etc.  
Manequim doesn't have an overview page showing all the styles, but you can see quite a few in a section where they show combinations of patterns with RTW and accessories.   The patterns are the ones titled 'Molde' with the black star.
The first magazine section is romantic summery styles. 
 A section on minis - but I'm more interested in the cute blouses. 
A selection of holiday clothes to mix and match, including a bikini, jumpsuit, wrap top, floppy shorts and a couple of beach cover ups.
A section of 'summer hits' with more cute tops.  Some of these Manequim patterns have a lot of pattern pieces!
And finally, bathers and beach cover ups for different figure types.
Now, back to my sewing room....

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Manequim October

I'd been wondering where my Manequim subscription had got to and should I be worried?  I subscribed in July; December is on their website and the only magazine I'd received was September.   Happily, October's magazine has turned up - posted on 8 October, so they must just come by sea mail.  
It's summer in Australia and one of the nice things about Manequim is that it is from Brazil, also enjoying summer.  So here are 33 nice summery patterns.   Although tracing off the patterns looks challenging - ewww!  Look at this!
I've never seen Manequim on Ebay or in shops, but a subscription to the magazine costs US$135 and can be obtained by emailing adtmexterior@abril.com.br. Be prepared for a slow process though.

Rather than being a straight pattern mag like Burda or Patrones, Manequim is more like a fashion magazine that includes patterns.   It has RTW clothes too, make up features,  home decor, recipes etc.  And the odd quirky accessory to make.  Anyone have a Nespresso machine?   Been wondering what to do with all those empty coffee pods?   
My personal favourites are this very pretty blouse (drafted up - it's size 40).
This tshirt - there are 3 similar styles in the mag.
And this dress - love the neck and sleeve details although after having a look at the instructions and pattern pieces I wouldn't have a clue how to put it together.
There is a section on styles inspired by a TV celeb. The black dress is interesting - close up below, although I'm not sure about the chain feature.
There is another section featuring 'architectural' styles which includes the cover outfit and a couple of nice dresses.  
 There's a section inspired by Pucci.
And a casual section with dropped crotch pants and shorts, jacket, dress, tee and skirt.
And finally a special for kids.  For the under 2s:
For 3-5s. 
and for 6-8 years. 

I haven't made anything from Manequim yet but I think I'm going to start with that lovely blue blouse... I have just the fabric.