Thursday, December 16, 2010

Burda tie neck blouse 10/2010

Ahoy Perth sewers!  There is a Potter Textiles Outlet sale on.   I know I go on about Potters a lot - I assure you I have no affiliation whatsoever.  No, it is pure self interest!  After living in a fabric Sahara as the fabric shops have dwindled, I am loving having access to affordable, wantable fabrics and want it to continue!  I'm sure I'm not alone.

The sale is a goodie and I understand that the sale stock will continue until that stock is sold - the new stuff is starting to come in.   And thanks to Elizabeth for that info and letting me know about the sale! 
I had a visit there yesterday. There is no way I need any more fabric - but it was a bargain!  Clockwise from left - mango organic cotton jersey, white/ maroon silk/cotton voile, a black and white silky remnant, ombre grey rayon jersey, grey modal wool, beige/ black silk charmeuse and a wild snakeskin sort of print silk.  For a price guide - the most expensive were the silks at AU$12.95 per metre.

But before I get onto sewing any of those - I have been finishing the second blouse from October Burda (Model 118).  There are 3 versions in the mag- short tie, no tie and long tie.
I've made 2 versions:  Chartreuse hammered silk charmeuse for the first (sans small sleeve turn up) and a stripy silk crepe de chine for the second.    And I can't recommend this pattern enough!
If you want to check if you need to get your eyes tested - sew this stripy fabric when tired!   I couldn't focus on the fabric - still can't - time for new reading glasses.

This is such a nice style.  The pluses - It is roomy, it is classic, it can sit in the wardrobe for a while without going out of style and it doesn't take too long to make.  A Burda winner.   Burda has made it in woolly looking fabric, cotton and leather so it looks good for all sorts of fabrics.   I made a size 44 and it is pretty true to size, there isn't a lot of excess fabric.  
  • The neckline is low.   Hope no-one looks too closely at the green version as although I had not made the slit as low as the pattern, it was still way too low so I had to catch stitch the slit together at the bottom.
  • Tie length - you may want to lengthen the tie a bit.  The tie is on the bias and for the green version it stretched a lot.  The tie length on the stripy top is more representative.
  • When cutting out the tie - look at the pattern layout.  You need to add a triangle to the ends (or it looks like the stripy version). They say 'tie collar, cut on bias 98cm long, 13cm cut without allowance' which sounds like a rectangle, but flick to the layout - you need to triangularise the ends or the tie will be short.
  • I wasn't that keen on the neck finishing method and did it differently. Burda has the tie sewn to the back only - shoulder to shoulder. That looked odd so I have sewn further around - starting and ending at the notches on the front.

  • Maybe I am reading the Burda instructions incorrectly but they seem to suggest first finishing the neck edge with self bias binding and second, sewing on the tie - presumably over the top of the bias binding.  I've reversed this.  I basted both the edges of the collar to the neck then sewed the bias binding all around the neck and then turned over the bias binding to cover all the seams.  
So it looks like this on the inside when finished. 
This is a really good work blouse and without the tie would be a great top for when you don't have much fabric.   I see more versions of this pattern in my future.

October Manequim has just turned up so my next post will be Manequim inspired.


  1. I can't wait to make this blouse. The striped one is even nicer than the first version. It will be hard to resist the impulse to copy.

  2. Love a good tie blouse! Beautiful fabric choices too! Can you advise where do you get Mannequin magazine from? Do you have a link you could share? Thanks so much, I'm addicted to good sewing magazines.

  3. And does this "Elizabeth" get a kick-back for her recommendations?

  4. Fabulous! I continue to be amazed at how similar our tastes are - this was by far the standout pattern in this issue for me! I have a few silks in my stash that would be perfect for this, so thanks very much.

    And I'm with you on the neckline finish - doing a bias binding the whole way around definitely makes the most sense to me, too.

  5. Potter's had an amazing jersey on the roll from the winter 2011 fabrics so I can't wait to see what else they have in store for us. I love the jersey remnant 'bin', I bought a tencel/silk remnant which is amazing and an organic cotton in black. Vanessa

  6. Thanks for the nice comments everyone! Darby - I've never seen Manequim in any shops or on ebay (pity), but a subscription can be obtained by emailing Costs US$135.