Friday, June 11, 2010

Jacket infatuation - Burda 12/2009 No. 107

Pattern Description: Tuxedo Style Jacket.

  That isn't meant to be an artsy photo - I'm just really bad at taking photos at night.  That top is pink believe it or not!

Pattern Sizing: 34 to 42. I'm usually a 14 and made a 42 with 2 cm added to each side seam.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but I left off the padded epaulettes and mine is more structured.

Were the instructions easy to follow? It depends how you want it to look. The Burda way would end up in an unstructured, lined cardigan style jacket. The only mention of the inner construction is "Interfacing: See pattern layout. Also interface hem allowances".

I wanted a slightly more structured version so interfaced it like a standard jacket and inserted sleeve heads and small shoulder pads.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I just love it - it is very versatile and looks good with just about anything - dress, skirt, narrow trousers or jeans. You can make it formal or casual. It is also easy to make!    

 Fabric Used: A lightweight Marc Jacobs Rayon/wool/lycra from EOS.  Lined in a yellow silk Anna Sui habutai from FabricMart. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Mine is made like a tailored jacket rather than the more unstructured Burda version. The only changes were that:
  • I made a muslin and made my standard narrow back adjustment and narrow shoulder adjustment.
  • I recommend adding on a couple of inches at the bottom as a hem facing - there isn't one e.g. pattern changes.
  • I left off the epaulettes and inserted small shoulder pads instead. I tried the epaulettes but while theirs look firm and elegant, I looked like I had mini bean bags on my shoulders. Hmmm ... maybe you need FIRM wadding!!!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I highly, highly recommend it. It is really versatile and quick to make for a jacket. Not sure if I will make it again.... although it would be good in something a little metallic for evening...

Conclusion: I have jacket infatuation!

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