Friday, June 4, 2010

Burda tuxedo jacket - in progress

1 evening cutting out muslin and making fitting changes.

1 evening cutting out fabric, lining and interfacing and applying interfacing.

1 evening on inner construction and sewing shell of garment.

I reckon I may be finished tomorrow night - I've only got to insert sleeve heads, make the lining and affix lining and facing.  Oh, and make the puffy epaulette-y things - they may be a bit of a challenge.

And so far... it is looking like a spiffy little jacket.  

(It looks much less crumply round the neck on me than on the dressform).

I guessed at the best way to interface the lapels;  structuring them in the same way as a normal lapel (just upside down).  I'll see how that goes when I press it.  

All of the front and upper back and upper sleeves are interfaced with a light - medium fusible interfacing.  The grey areas are iron on bias tape.  The white tape is seam tape, stretched a tad.  In fact it is probably stretched too much and I may fix that.   There is also a bias strip of interfacing across the hem.  And, not shown in the picture but I also added a wedge of fusible heavier weight interfacing on the back and front shoulders. 

By way of fitting changes I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, narrow back adjustment and added a hem facing.  I also made corresponding adjustments to the epaulettes and the upper sleeve top.

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