Saturday, April 30, 2011

Patrones 302 top Model 1

I've been out of sewing form - you know when you keep making silly errors and start getting despondent about sewing?   Time, I suspect, to try a few simple and quick things I (hopefully) can't botch.   Model No. 1 from Patrones #302 fits the bill.
The Original had 2 different sleeves but I duplicated the longer sleeve when tracing.

For the muslin I tried the funny underarm sleeve thing in the Original but couldn't figure out how it worked - it has 4 identical largish crescent shapes for the one arm. That stumped me. Plus it doesn't seem like a good idea having fabric under your arm does it; wouldn't it scrunch unappealingly? 
I made another one in beige whilst how to make it was fresh in my mind.   It is such a good basic.  This pattern would be great as a tshirt too.

I made a size 46 and the fabric for both is silk charmeuse with the wrong side out.  Seems like a waste doesn't it, but I've realised shiny things on top don't suit me at all.   The pink is from Textile Traders in Balcatta, and the beige was from a pile of silks I bought from a sale at FabricClub a year or so ago - it was only about $6 a yard so I bought heaps, although I later realised that some had oil marks on it. 
Ahhhh wouldn't it be lovely if Patrones had those back and side photos of the original items like Vogue or Simplicity?   Sometimes with this magazine it is just a best guess of what the item really looks like.
I don't usually try and translate Patrones instructions as they often aren't very comprehensible after internet translation.  But despite this looking like such a simple style I couldn't quite work out the method for the front seam and tucks.  It was clear that one tuck had to be sewn before the front seam as the two front pieces are different lengths.
After spending some time on the muslin I finally did an internet translation and, wouldn't you know it, the instructions weren't so bad.  And I had sewn it wrong.   Anyway, if any other non Spanish readers don't feel like typing out the instructions into the translator  - here is the way I think you make this top.

This is not in Patrones, but first off I recommend extending the front seam pattern a little at the bottom, particularly if you are over a B cup.  I had issues with the front seam being much shorter than the rest of the hem (despite having matched up all the markings) which looked strange and made sewing the hem a problem.  If you add some extra length at the beginning you can always chop it off if you don't need it.  
  • Apply fusible interfacing to facings.
  • Crease and stitch the bottom tuck on the front left side from A to B.
  • Patrones says to next connect the two fronts from neck to base, sew and iron them.   Then the horizontal fold is made by folding and bringing the dashed line down to the line A.   To keep the fold closed baste, iron and fold.  I did mine differently however, as that method made it look a bit chunky (probably as I had done a french seam).   I instead basted (don't sew this tuck - the bottom tuck is sewn, the top one is just basted and the basting later removed) the tuck on the two front pieces.  Then I sewed the front seam.  It seemed easier. 
  • Form the vertical tuck by folding along the vertical line and folding it to the front seam line.  You need to sew from C to D on the front seam line.  On the pink version I sewed it on the outside, and on the beige version I sewed it on the inside.   The inside probably looks neater. 
  • Sew left side back to the right side back piece.
  • Sew sides and shoulders.
  • Hem sleeves.  
  • Apply neck facing.
  • Hem. 
All up I love this top - it is so easy to wear and easy to make. 


  1. Good to see this made up in a solid, it was pretty hard to see what was going on in the magazine version. Thanks too for posting translated instructions, I love silk tops for summer so may well add this to my list as yours both look great.

  2. What interesting tops - and they have worked out beautifully! I'm with you on the asymmetric sleeves and underarm fabric - very strange, and much nicer to have regular short sleeves on both sides. Is Patrones a bit like Burda in favouring one-armed clothes??

  3. When I got this issue of Patrones, I thought this top had interesting style lines, had a bit too much going on. I really like your versions, with two sleeves. Made in solid fabrics, the interesting pleating is really noticeable. Thanks for the instructions.

  4. Hey I passed on an award to you. Have a look at I really love your blog!

  5. I love the taupe colour blouse.

  6. Hi! I've created an unofficial guide to Patrones terms. Maybe you'll find it useful?

  7. Hi, found your blog while browsing the internet. You make some lovely garments.

    I fell in love with this top, do you know if it is possible to buy the odd pattern from the patrones website, like it is from Burdastyle?