Burda July Model 105

Do you ever go to sew something marked 'Easy' only to find that it is the Venus Flytrap of sewing time? 

And after spending days and days making it, it has the nerve to not look very nice on. Sigh.

The Exhibit: July Burda model 105.  How innocuous it looks.  Don't be fooled.

I thought so! I'm not imagining it.  It has a sign for 'Easy'.  

On the 'Easy' side it has only 3 pieces plus a hem band and facing strips.   And Burda has the edges simply finished with zigzagging. 

On the Non Easy side it is all on the bias.  The Burda fabric is bias chiffon.  Mine is a light silk charmeuse.  It needs a very light, drapey fabric.   

The actual sewing is relatively simple as you can imagine, but the issues I encountered were:

• being cut on the bias the front and back pieces stretched madly and it needed a lot of taking in at the sides.  I wonder if it would be better if only the front was cut on the bias?
• From cutting out to finishing the bust dart points had slunk to the midriff and the sides had to be unpicked and darts repositioned.
• Being bias the bottom kicks out, which is accentuated when you add the non bias band.   It looked more like a frill so I gathered in the bottom of the bodice to fit the band.   I suspect it would look better without the band altogether -  this would require lengthening the pattern.
• It does look better without sleeves.
• I didn't read the pattern instructions and made a mistake - although not a problematic one. I'd assumed from the photos that the front flap was a pleat, however, I think the edges are meant to be open and hemmed. 

The design also has its oddities.   I suspect it would look better without the sticky out triangular bit (on the right below).  

The front drape is held up by a dangly strip from the shoulder.

The black version isn't that good worn but ok and I'll wear it to work (I went outside to take a photo of it on, but my next door neighbours are entertaining on their verandah - much too embarrassing).

I made the mistake of trying a second version (unfortunately in a nice fabric). 

The problem with this one is the bias.  It fits very oddly, particularly at the back.  Pulls in some bits.  Sticks out in other bits.  Sigh.  This is disappearing into the Good Sammies bin forthwith.

I'm still not sure whether there is some potential in this pattern with modifications.  I doubt I have the courage to try it again but maybe in a jersey with the back cut on the straight grain rather than the bias, the sticky out bit cut off and lengthened so that it doesn't need a band.  What do you think?

 

Ah well, you win some...you lose some....