Sunday, July 31, 2011

Burda July Model 105

Do you ever go to sew something marked 'Easy' only to find that it is the Venus Flytrap of sewing time? 

And after spending days and days making it, it has the nerve to not look very nice on. Sigh.

The Exhibit: July Burda model 105.  How innocuous it looks.  Don't be fooled.
I thought so! I'm not imagining it.  It has a sign for 'Easy'.  
On the 'Easy' side it has only 3 pieces plus a hem band and facing strips.   And Burda has the edges simply finished with zigzagging. 
On the Non Easy side it is all on the bias.  The Burda fabric is bias chiffon.  Mine is a light silk charmeuse.  It needs a very light, drapey fabric.   

The actual sewing is relatively simple as you can imagine, but the issues I encountered were:

  • being cut on the bias the front and back pieces stretched madly and it needed a lot of taking in at the sides.  I wonder if it would be better if only the front was cut on the bias?
  • From cutting out to finishing the bust dart points had slunk to the midriff and the sides had to be unpicked and darts repositioned.
  • Being bias the bottom kicks out, which is accentuated when you add the non bias band.   It looked more like a frill so I gathered in the bottom of the bodice to fit the band.   I suspect it would look better without the band altogether -  this would require lengthening the pattern.
  • It does look better without sleeves.
  • I didn't read the pattern instructions and made a mistake - although not a problematic one. I'd assumed from the photos that the front flap was a pleat, however, I think the edges are meant to be open and hemmed. 
The design also has its oddities.   I suspect it would look better without the sticky out triangular bit (on the right below).  
The front drape is held up by a dangly strip from the shoulder.
The black version isn't that good worn but ok and I'll wear it to work (I went outside to take a photo of it on, but my next door neighbours are entertaining on their verandah - much too embarrassing).

I made the mistake of trying a second version (unfortunately in a nice fabric). 
The problem with this one is the bias.  It fits very oddly, particularly at the back.  Pulls in some bits.  Sticks out in other bits.  Sigh.  This is disappearing into the Good Sammies bin forthwith.
I'm still not sure whether there is some potential in this pattern with modifications.  I doubt I have the courage to try it again but maybe in a jersey with the back cut on the straight grain rather than the bias, the sticky out bit cut off and lengthened so that it doesn't need a band.  What do you think?
Ah well, you win lose some....


  1. What a pity - and such nice fabric too. I think if it was me I'd give up at this point! I agree that the sticky out bit at the neckline doesn't look quite right either. Maybe if you took that off as well...but there's probably a better pattern out there somewhere.

  2. Gorgeous fabric. Hard to tell without seeing it on, but I wonder if the stretchiness matters on such a drapey garment. I do love the style.

  3. Both versions look lovely. I would like to see them on a real person. I have had similar issues with two bias cut tops I made recently. sides belling out, darts saging. Bias fabric really baffles me . I never know how it will behave.

  4. Oh, quel dommage! Jacquie I'm so disappointed. I must have known unconsciously that you were working on it because I was moved during the week to write about the front drape shoulder tape.

    I too would want to see them on you if it's not too traumatizing. Fabrics were fantastic!

  5. I was intrigued by this pattern too, but put off by the thought of an open wrap so if you sewed your front with a pleat I think thats an improvement. It looks pretty interesting and would love to see it on you when your neighbours have finished partying!

  6. I had my eye on that pattern too, but...

    Trina at Slapdash Sewist just posted her modified version here:

  7. Oh dear! I really liked this one in the magazine, too, but just hadn't got around to trying it out yet. Bias always gives me problems, though, so I completely know where you're coming from! You may have lost good fabric, but you've avoided others like me from the same fate! So thanks very much for sharing this anyway.

  8. Hi! Your post was very useful as I just made my own version. I linked to you from my blog here: I really like how it turned out, so I hope you don't give up on this pattern yet!