Sunday, January 23, 2011

November Manequim top 408

My first Manequim project!   When I first subscribed to Burda I didn't make anything from it for about 8 months so I'm not doing so badly here.
This is a very simple shape. A basic trapeze with a triangle added to the centre front and the bottom shaped accordingly and a couple of inches are hoiked up and sewn together at the top.
One of the things I like about working with foreign language pattern mags is how they challenge and develop your construction techniques. You just have to take your best stab at how the garment is constructed and let go of ideas of right and wrong. As you are guessing what the RTW actually looks like, it doesn't really matter.  Here, I experimented with ways to sew the hoiked up bit, none looked exactly like the photo but it is fine.
The first version is in a patterned crinkle poly - I was in Potter Textiles and spotted this remnant draped around a dressform, which they kindly sold to me for $5.  That's a nice cheap top!  The second version is in a cream hammered silk satin.

If mine looks a little different from the pattern pieces - the pattern has asymetrical sleeves, but I was planning on wearing this to work so made both sleeves the same.   Hopefully you can get an idea of the shape of the front when the pattern is folded along the centre.
The Manequim pattern sheets are a bit horrific - I'm not crazy about drawing on pattern sheets normally but a highlighter pen is merited with these.  Finding the outside lines aren't so bad, but finding the grainlines and any pattern markings can involve some squinting.  

Most Manequim patterns come in one size only, and this is size 46.   The Manequim, Vogue and Burda sizing charts are below for a comparison.  I managed to stack on a few kilos whilst on holiday and I'm not quite sure of my current size (I'm in denial).  Hopefully I'm on the downward slide now I'm separated from the fridge, but meanwhile size 46 seems to be equivalent to a Vogue size 18 - noooooo!  I can't have gone up 2 dress sizes!    I'm telling myself that this is just a roomy style!
The photos in the magazine are of RTW clothes so the patterns may not be EXACTLY the same.  The flower had me stumped.   This is the pattern piece.
And this is the photo.  Hmm...
After an internet search and stumbling upon Little Birdie Secrets I came up with something vaguely similar.  This is the end result. 
I used a different method for the cream version, although I'm going to revisit this as after looking at the photo of the top... hmmm not loving so much.  It looks a bit wedding-y or shiny doesn't it?   Do you think the roughness of the raw edged flower would be better?  
 
And the pants - I don't think I have ever owned so many trousers!  It's great but time to move onto skirts methinks.   The fabric for these is an olive cotton lycra brushed sateen that I got a few months ago from Fabric.com.
These are a morphed pattern.  I cut out Vogue 8456.
but wasn't keen on the wide legs so superimposed the bootleg from Vogue 9537 over the legs.  Goodness, I bought this pattern from the Lincraft that used to be in Perth CBD, how long ago was that?

8 comments:

  1. Jacquie, both those tops look amazing. I bet you get heaps of people (who don't know that you sew) asking where you bought the green one, it is so striking. Vanessa

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  2. This is a really cool top, both versions look great on you. I'm also somewhat envious that you are able to whip up such great fitting pants so easily.

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  3. Jacquie,
    My english isn't the better, but my portuguese is. I'm brazilian and I use to by the Manequim magazine every month. If you need some help I'm here to try to aid you.
    Míriam

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  4. I love the green one. Thanks for showing us pattern pieces - helps with self drafting from a sloper.

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  5. Both of the tops are beautiful. $5.00 for that lovely green fabric, I'm envious.

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  6. I love your style! Your beautiful sewing and styling inspired me to hunt down taking no prisoners - um, I mean find some copies of Manequim for myself! The tops are gorgeous, and I like the raw edged flower better too. It may work well with the chiffon for contrast rather than the hammered satin! Sue

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  7. My favorite is the green top and olive pants, no doubt. You did a beautiful job. I have the same feeling when you sew with foreign employers, but in reverse .... I'm Spanish. LOL

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